Shanghai ChefsAbout the Culinary World of Shanghai

Let’s not candy-coat it here. If you can keep both your eyes closed to the spitting, open belching and farting, little kiddies walking around with a hole in their pants (so that it’s convenient to take a dump on the sidewalk), then you’ll survive most of the culture shock.

Money is the catalyst for any Shanghai motion. You can almost be certain that if there is a way to scam you out of ¥1, it’s going to happen. More often than not, this generally occurs during a scenic route in a cab ride. When haggling for a good price, the rule of thumb is to offer one-third of the quoted cost and work your way from there.

Most locals are generally quite friendly and helpful once you get the issue of money out of the equation. Although English is not widely as spoken compared to other Asian cities like Hong Kong, the younger generation in Shanghai is starting to pick up more English lessons. Contrast to five years ago, the language barrier now is considerably much easier.

To the Shanghainese, ‘face value’ is crucially important. They would do just about anything to not lose ‘face’ or be ashamed. In terms of being polite, regardless of how much you learn, you should always let your host pay for the meal when being invited out.

Name cards are particularly significant as it is considered that without one, you are not taken seriously by the company.

Depending on how decadent you want your lifestyle to be, the cost of living here is relatively cheap – this covers transportation (taxis start at ¥11 during the day), hiring cleaning services or better known as ‘ayis’, and of course the ubiquitous Tsing Tao beer. Supermarkets with western groceries can be found in most of the residential areas. Though they may a bit more expensive, be comforted in the fact that you won’t be craving for your favourite Weissbier or Salt & Vinegar crisps.

As for the pushing and shoving in the subway as well as in supermarkets? Well, there’s no real rationality behind that one. Just be sure to keep your toes covered!

Patience is a Virtue

Don’t get too alarmed – Shanghai in all seriousness does have her own charm. The city is dotted with fascinating areas that remind you of what it would have been like to live here during the Golden Age. More western places are constantly developing, and in a city where there is so much strive for change, it is without a doubt and opportunistic place to be.

Relocating to a new city regardless of where it may be is always a challenge. Shanghai may be trying at first, but the number of expats living here is testament that the city does have a lot to offer. With a handful of salt and a 10 litre stockpot of patience, you’ll find that Shanghai has her own ways of winning you over.

There is plenty of books and websites that will give you information on Shanghai. However, we want to try and keep this as short, interesting and relative to the industry that we are in. Most of the scoop gathered here is sourced from Shanghai expats who have been through and survived the ordeal of finding a place to call “home”.

With a population that precedes over 20 million (bordering 21 million), the natural vibe of the city is to be in a motion of constant push and shove. You might want to cling on your manners as long as possible, but if you’re going to survive Shanghai, it’s okay to adapt your kitchen language into your daily grind.

The Division Between Luxury and Culture

Shanghai is distinctly divided into two main sections by the Huangpu River – Pudong and Puxi. The majority of the city’s energy and life revolves around the Puxi area. It is highly debated amongst some expats that Pudong is not exactly part of Shanghai, as it is somewhat detached from the real Shanghai scene. (This debate can be continued in the forum section…)

Puxi is undoubtedly the central area where Shanghai historically built herself. It is engraved with memories of Shanghai’s Golden Age, but at the same time also holds promises for a successful future. What more can you expect from the Opium Den of the nineteenth century?

Whilst Puxi may be the focal area for shopping, key attractions and city lifestyle, Pudong is the financial centre of Shanghai. It boasts of its own record-towering skyscrapers such as the Shanghai World Financial Center, Jin Mao Tower and of course, the conspicuous and garish Oriental Pearl TV Tower. Pudong is actually a preferred location for most expat families as there are numerous compounds which are already equipped with all the trimmings and doesn’t require much venturing out into the real hubbub of Shanghai.

To find out more about Puxi and Pudong, please click on the ‘Residential Areas’ category.

There is a Chinese saying that goes something along the lines of, ‘If there is a problem, you keep one eye open and the other eye shut’. That is definitely the mantra adopted by most of the locals. You’ll find most of them playing ostrich – digging their head into the sand whenever a problem arises, hoping that things will be okay once they come up for fresh air.

Screaming, throwing pots and pans, and threats might work in an European or Western kitchen, but not in Shanghai. The last thing any chef wants is a bunch of headless chooks running aimlessly around the kitchen. More likely than not, an aggressive action will produce no reaction whatsoever. Ask any expat chef, and they will tell you that it takes a hell of a lot more tact and skill to run a kitchen with a local crew.

Salary and working conditions are going to constantly be a reoccurring issue. Unlike the western cheffing industry, chefs in Shanghai are on a very strict 8-hour shift each day.

Something that has to be understood is that most of the locals that take on cheffing as a career see it as nothing more than just another paying job. Not very many are driven by passion or the desire to want to taste western cuisine. Finding a local chef that is motivated by food and does not have a taste bud soaked in monosodium glutamate (msg) is a rare occasion and you should hang on to him/her tight if you do find one!

Occasional surprises such as finding several smaller fish stuffed in a whole fish to “subtly” increase its weight from a local supplier is not uncommon. This may require some appropriate swear words to get your point across - if you can swear in Shanghainese, you might get even further. Being approached by suppliers who will offer you “special deals” to place orders with them is also a norm.

Our ‘Food Suppliers’ category lists some of the most reliable, well-sourced and used suppliers in Shanghai.

On the western side of the Huangpu River, Puxi is a mixture of the old and the new Shanghai. Besides culture and entertainment, Puxi is also Shanghai’s central food scene. Holding on to the past with side-stall food streets (which are disappearing at an alarming rate), hot pot restaurants and dumpling stands; fine-dining restaurants with celebrity chef names like Jean-Georges are also based here.

Puxi does feel crowded at times, but its energy and vibrancy is what attracts people. Without the chaos and over-population, the city might fall apart being dysfunctional. A lot of highly developed and constructed buildings are centered near downtown, with most of the compounds being a little further away in Hongqiao and Gubei.

The main residential areas in Puxi are:-

French Concession and Luwan- The French Concession is definitely one of the more charming areas in Shanghai. A central location with quiet and green streets, it is popular among expat residents. The district covers Huaihai Road - a main shopping street with restaurants, retail clothing stores, supermarkets (City Shop - which sells imported groceries), pharmacies and large departmental stores (Parkson and Isetan). Xintiandi is also part of the district and is a haven for expats as well as a top tourist spot. It consists of refurbished traditional Shanghai houses (Shikumens) that are now converted into restaurants, bars, clubs and retail shops.

Serviced apartments with short-term stays are available in complexes like Hong Kong Plaza and Lakeville Regency. Rent rates for apartments start at ¥25,000. Old colonial lane houses in the French Concession fetch the highest price in real estate property with rates set from ¥50,000 a month. Luwan’s rates are slightly lower ranging from ¥15,000 to ¥40,000.

Gubei and Hongqiao - Gubei was the heart of expat center several years ago. Most of the expats living here now are mainly Asians, in particular Japanese, Taiwanese and Koreans. Carrefour and another Parkson departmental store are also located here. As there are a few international schools situated in Hongqiao, this part of town is a favourite for expat families. Those that enjoy golf will be relieved to know that there is a golf club nearby. A number of large villa complexes in the area fitted with pools, sizeable gardens, and sports facilities make it a convenient lifestyle. Villa monthly rates start from ¥32,000 and can go up to a whopping ¥80,000. Apartments are a little less extreme, starting at ¥20,000.

Jing’an -Jing’an is one of the slightly trendier sides of Shanghai. Covering the famous shopping section of the city Nanjing Xi Road, cafes, restaurants, several branded retail shops and malls line up one after the other. Western food supplies can easily be sourced here at several supermarkets such as City Shop and Freshmart (conveniently located at the Jing’an Metro Station). There are a number of modern high-rise apartment buildings that are well-equipped and come completed with western kitchens (ovens are a rare thing in local housings). Rent start from ¥20,000 at these high-end apartments or ¥8,000 at the less exquisite scale.

Pudong may be growing in numbers as more and more international companies are setting up their establishments there. However, it still feels somewhat isolated from the main liveliness of downtown. For families settling down though, most compounds are so spacious and well-fitted that there is no need to venture out beyond the compound gates. Equipped with swimming pools, gyms, mini supermarkets, kindergartens and even clubhouses, you find everything literally just a few steps away.

These are some of the main residential areas in Pudong:-

Lujiazui – Closer to downtown, this area has mainly high-rise apartments that have a view of the Huangpu River. Just opposite to The Bund, it is a short commute to and fro from Puxi. According to real estate agents, this is the new upcoming financial and commercial area of Shanghai. Rent rates start from ¥8,000 a month and you can expect to find family-sized apartments ranging from ¥14,000 to ¥60,000.

Jinqiao and Century Park – Also known as Green City, Jinqiao is very similar to the suburbs in the western world because of its spacious green lawns, wide streets and child-friendly neighbourhood. A few of the international schools are located in this area. These include the Concordia International School and Dulwich College. The Shanghai American School and British International School is also not too far away. There are two large Carrefours (your one-stop supermarket), one of which is within Thumb Plaza – an area which also comprises of restaurants and bars. Rents for smaller complexes start from ¥20,000; whilst villas can range between ¥35,000 – ¥70,000. For high-end properties, the rent rate can be up to ¥95,000 a month. Century Park offers slightly smaller apartments and fewer villas but cheaper rent.

Kangqiao – Several international school campuses and large expat housing compounds are in this area. Although not yet one of the larger preferred regions, there is ongoing development taking place to make it more convenient and ‘livable’. Rent rates starts from ¥30,000 for villas and ¥20,000 for smaller townhouses.

USEFUL REAL ESTATE SITES:-

• http://shanghai.asiaxpat.com/property/
• http://www.replusrealestate.com/
• http://www.shrelocation.com/
• http://www.shanghai-realty.com/
• http://www.shanghaiproperty.com.cn/