Shanghai ChefsAbout the Culinary World of Shanghai

One of the most redoubtable nightlife spots of Shanghai is the Changshu Lu / Hengshan Lu area. Part of the French Concession area, the streets around this centre have undertaken somewhat of a transition since the early twentieth century.

Wrought iron railings, tree-lined avenues and ivy-coloured mansions from that era still remain, and are a reminder of Shanghai’s lavish days. Also known for being one of the 714 places in Shanghai which Chiang Kai-shek and his wife ‘once stopped for a cup of tea and a biscuit’ (an impressive historical fact that you can pass on to others) this area is entrenched with Shanghai’s golden days.

However, come nighttime, these historical sites become more than just an educational interest in China’s history. Innumerable watering holes have popped up in the area in the last ten or twenty years; a few of which are actually located within the old courtyard houses.

The trick is not finding bars here; it’s separating the wheat from the chaff. Head east and you will find bars that will leave you regretting you ever left home. Head west (towards Changshu Lu) and you will find the majority of the best locations on the side streets.

In need of pub grub and the familiar warmth that only a pint can give? Try British Bulldog, Paulaner Brauhaus, O’Malleys or Blarney Stone. Feel like some entertaining table top dancing and lively music? Head for Zapatas. Want to be seen among the cool and trendy in search for eye-candy? Then it’s Mao or Bistro Latitude for you.

A few more worthy destinations include Abbey Road (aptly designed with a Beatles décor and has good-priced European styled food), Oscars (decent selection of foreign beers) and Sasha’s (which has the capability to transport you out of Shanghai immediately as it is usually packed with expats). A little further away, at the Xujiahui end of Hengshan Lu, is Park Tavern – a new English-styled pub with quite an impressive selection of foreign beers and the friendliest, most accommodating staff outside that of a happy ending massage parlour. It is worth going out of the way for.

Although these locations are a main haunt of the expat crowds, there is far more than mere food and drink to be had at these watering holes. There is the whole social scene that goes with any “lao wai” (old foreigner) gathering spot. O’Malleys, for example, holds family-centred shindigs on Sundays during the summer and is involved in many expat sports competitions and organizations. It is also a favourite location come big-game time, with a number of large screen TVs regularly showing football, rugby, etc. The same can be said of British Bulldog, along with its three floors and live-music. Definitely a good area in which to conduct that most overused of English words in Shanghai: “networking.”

There is something very appealing and comforting about having such a vast array of pubs and bars within spitting distance of each other. For one, it makes bar-hopping a hell of a lot more convenient. It also means that the area is swarmed with taxis eagerly waiting to take you on a scenic route home. The advantage of having them line up in front of you though means that there is no need to shamelessly stumble along the streets in search of one.

Shanghai nightlife is one of the most eclectic you’ll find. It’s got it all – a price list to suit every budget and a style to suit every taste. Indeed, if you’re on the cutting edge of city nightlife, finding a cabbie who can keep up with you may be the only challenge. The bar scene doesn’t discriminate by location, having a good spread throughout Puxi and a growing number in Pudong.

Individual bars are dotted about everywhere, but a few main areas deserve mention. The cluster of bars located between Hengshan Road and Changshu Road metro stations, Jingan Park / West Nanjing Road area, and the French Concession are among the most popular. It’s worth getting to grips with some of the roads and metro stations if you are planning on frequenting these hot spots.

No introduction to Shanghai bars can be complete without reference to the most notorious of streets in the city: Hengshan Lu, Julu Lu and Tongren Lu. Similar to the King’s Cross districts of London or Sydney; these are the roads that do not sleep, and that feature in any ill-judged outing. While you may not begin your night there, most all-nighter sessions usually end on one of these streets.

A general rule of thumb is to shy away from any venue that has the electrical consumption of a moderate sized country. It’s common practice on these roads to ‘blind by neon’. Imagine established practice in reverse: the better lit the place is, the more dangerous and regrettable it’s likely to be. Also beware the bar with a gaggle of young girls loitering on the doorstep whose English extends to, “Handsome English man, come in” and “Buy me a drink.” You can expect a sore head and bitter regrets the next day.

Many bars close to and either side of the river offer fantastic night-time views back across the water. Well worth a stop is The Grand Hyatt’s ‘Cloud 9 Bar’ on the 87^th floor of the Jin Mao building in Pudong. There is a ¥110 minimum order and a loose dress code, but the views of the Pearl Tower, the Bund and Puxi won’t leave you feeling short -changed.

Similarly, back in Puxi, Captain’s Bar (in Captain’s Youth Hostel) on Fuzhou Lu has all the charms of drinking up a storm in a sailor’s environment. Just across the street is The House of Blues and Jazz; one of Shanghai’s excellent jazz bars. The location is new, but the bar itself has been folklore with music lovers in Shanghai for years.

And finally, if cost is upper most in your mind, then there is one word you need to remember: Windows. This chain has been a mainstay of the city’s bar scene since expats first called Shanghai home. With prices you can’t besmirch (¥10 or ¥20 for all drinks) and hangovers you can’t forget, it’s likely to remain entrenched in the list of notable bars for a long time yet.

For up to the date information on nighttime events, including the big music names in town, the English language monthly magazines have excellent listings.